I’m aware of 3 routes to the top of Anderson Peak. One is described in Nugara’s More Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies 3rd ed. It’s a moderate/difficult scramble route which ascends a rocky drainage then tags the eastern summit before continuing to the true summit. Another one involves approaching the mountain as the final part of a long west-to-east ridge walk starting near Twin Lakes. The final one is a route ascending a major drainage directly south of the summit. This is the one I see most often reported in online groups and the one I decided to follow for my first trip to the mountain. As part of the trip I also planned to tag the summit of Lost Mountain which is immediately adjacent to Anderson.
Access is from the Red Rock Parkway in Waterton. After parking at the Red Rock Canyon parking lot I followed the Blakiston Creek Trail west for a little under 5 km to the 3rd major drainage coming down from the slopes to the north. I left the trail there and bushwhacked a bit, following alongside a dried creek bed. I crossed over to the right side and after crashing through low bushes for a time was on clear slopes and ascending. Pretty soon I found myself down on the rocky part of the drainage since there was bare rock there that was easy to ascend. I did this for as long as possible before finally having to climb up alongside the drainage again on the right side.
The summit is not visible from the ascent slope. I chose a line and started ascending. The terrain was steeply sloped and generally had poor footing. To try to reduce the slog I found myself in a subsidiary drainage that gently angled me to climber’s right. The usual route doesn’t veer right, but I’m not sure that would have been any easier (or harder). Near the summit ridge I got onto the usual black rubble that is near the tops of most mountains in the area. The slope was steep but the rocks were pretty stable, they just made for tricky footing. After some more arduous climbing I was on top of the ridge and could see the summit a few hundred metres to my left. A slight descent then some steep hiking got me to the summit of Anderson Peak. It took 3 hours 47 minutes to this point.
Getting to Lost Mountain from Anderson involved a short descent southwest to the col. Some brief moderate scrambling was required ascending from the col. In very little time I was on the summit of Lost Mountain. The views from both peaks are similar, though naturally they’re better from Anderson because it’s almost 200 metres taller. For my descent I returned to the col and began to pick my way down, careful not to descend too soon so as to avoid some rock bands. The terrain was a mixture of steep dirt, shallow scree, grasses and pebbles on slabs. Nothing that allowed for a quick and carefree descent. I was grumbling a bit by the time I got back to the bushwhack, then the harassing insects I encountered had me grumbling a lot. Once back on the trail I had a pleasant walk back to my car.
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