Sapphire Lakes & Tanal Lake

Posted on by par

July 4, 2024. Summertime hiking in springtime conditions in Kokanee Glacier Park.

  • Region: Kokanee Glacier Park. Traditional territory of the Sinixt, Syilx, and Ktunaxa First Nations
  • Distance:
    • Kokanee Glacier Cabin to Sapphire Lakes: 3.5 km one-way
    • Enterprise Pass to Tanal Lake: 1.5 km one-way
  • Total Ascent:
    • Kokanee Glacier Cabin to Sapphire Lakes: 300 m
    • Enterprise Pass to Tanal Lake: -220 m
  • Elevation of Objective:
    • Sapphire Lakes: 2250 m
    • Tanal Lake: 1800 m
  • Safety and Disclaimer
Topo map of the route. I only added labels that were missing from the base map. To get a better look at the names, click to get a higher-res zoomable image.

Following our first night at the Kokanee Glacier Cabin we set out bright and early for Sapphire Lakes. A well-established trail leads to the pair of lakes which sit between Lemon Pass and Glory Basin. The reputed beauty of the area was reason enough for us to visit, but with the added challenge of significant remaining snow on the ground we found the journey as engaging as the destination. To fill out our day we headed to Tanal Lake afterwards.

From the shores of Kaslo Lake we followed a signed trail from the Cabin northwest for about 500 m to Enterprise Pass. We found a sign there that was knocked over, “Enterprise Pass” written on one board and “Tanal Lake” written on another board with an arrow. After puzzling through how to orient the sign we propped it up again with a rock pile. We also spied a “Sapphire Lakes” sign pointing to a trail heading uphill and to the southwest. We ascended and enjoyed some great morning views of Kaslo Lake from above.

A sign points the way from right outside the Kokanee Glacier Cabin.
Kaslo Lake was covered by a thin sheet of ice in the morning.
Below Enterprise Pass there wasn’t much snow on the trail.
Looking back at Kaslo Lake after a short climb along the trail.
The sign post at Enterprise Pass.
Two signs pointing the way to Sapphire Lakes. One’s broken and partly buried in the snow on the left, the other is to the right of the frame.
Ascending through some boulders, making our way towards Griffin Creek.
Another look down at Kaslo Lake.

Snow completely obscured the trail after a while as we continued upwards. We eventually came alongside Griffin Creek. We had to cross from the north to the south side of this creek, and using previously downloaded GPS tracks we could identify the usual site for crossing. However, high flow volume and overhanging snow on the far bank convinced us not to cross at that spot. Instead, we followed the creek upstream looking for a better spot to get across. A few hundred meters upstream we found a safe spot to hop across and carried on towards the cirque below Lemon Pass.

Alongside Griffin Creek, trying to find a place to cross.
There were some snow bridges remaining that we definitely weren’t going to trust.
Well upstream from the usual crossing location we found a place without overhanging snow on the far bank where the smaller tributaries had yet to coalesce into the larger creek. Kathy makes the leap across.
Valentina and Kathy check out the snowy terrain after crossing the creek.
Further along the route, looking back down at the source of Griffin Creek.
Bhaskar making his way uphill. Sawtooth Ridge in the background.
Approaching Lemon Pass. A cirque was immediately below it. Faint footsteps (which were likely Petra’s from a few days earlier) went along the left wall of the valley under the cliffs. We followed those.

Once at the cirque, we traversed below cliffs on the eastern wall of the valley, angling south to Lemon Pass. We reached the pass with no major difficulty and had a look south through Lemon Pass towards Mount John Carter and Sunset Mountain. Another 400 m walking to the south and we reached the snow-covered Sapphire Lakes.

Starting the traverse.
A look at Mount Giegerich, west of Lemon Pass.
Looking back the way we came, at the turquoise tarn feeding Griffin Creek.
Looking ahead to Lemon Pass. Kathy and Valentina were already there, Sunset Mountain in the background.
Myself, Kathy, and Valentina at Lemon Pass. Photo courtesy of Bhaskar Bhowmik.
Looking back at Lemon Pass from a short distance south of it. Snow covered almost everything in the valley. We had to be wary of post-holing into underlying cavities.
A mostly-buried sign informing that the campsite at Sapphire Lakes is closed.
Our first look at one of the Sapphire Lakes.

The conditions limited our ability to explore around the more easterly lake and up into Glory Basin. Instead we clambered up some rocks on a slope above the westerly lake and took a long break, enjoying the unique view of turquoise water laying atop snow.

A wide view of the more westerly Sapphire Lake.
From a slightly higher vantage point we had a view of a small waterfall cascading down from Glory Basin and the other Sapphire Lake.
A wider view.
A little higher again, the easterly Sapphire Lake is now visible as region of blank snow with faint blue patches further up the valley.

We debated whether to try walking up the snowy slopes to the summit of Mount Giegerich. Eventually we decided against it and slowly made our way all the way back down to Enterprise Pass.

Making our way back to Enterprise Pass.
Almost back to Enterprise Pass, looking at Kaslo Lake again.

Since we had a couple of hours yet before suppertime we decided to check out Tanal Lake. Following the directions on the sign that we’d propped back up that morning, we set out north from Enterprise Pass. About 100 m from the sign the route cut across snow-covered rubble in a narrow gully then began to descend roughly 220m over 1.5 km to the lake. In stark contrast to the other side of the pass, there was no snow in Tanal Lake’s valley. Early on in the descent we were treated to the best views of the lake, surrounded by trees beneath the slopes of Mount Robert Smith, Boomerang Mountain, and Tanal Peak. When we reached the shore we lounged for a while in the shade, had a snack, then made our way back to the comforts of the Kokanee Glacier Cabin.

After crossing this snow-filled gully the trail was totally bare and dry.
Looking down at Tanal Lake.
Another view from slightly lower.
On the shore of Tanal Lake, looking southwest towards Nansen Mountain and Mount Robert Smith.
Looking west at Boomerang Mountain.

The next day we walked out of the backcountry. As we walked, a helicopter zipped back and forth several times – some maintenance work was going on back at the cabin. It was the first day of a heatwave in western Canada. The skies were clear and it was interesting watching the helicopter ferry material in and out on a long line. We reflected that although our more ambitious hiking plans had been scuttled it was still a very enjoyable trip. We agreed that we would eventually have to return and explore further.

A tree ruins what would have been a pretty epic picture of the helicopter flying by Valentina.
Bringing in some material to the cabin.
Back at the north shore of Kokanee Lake.

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  1. Pingback: Kokanee Glacier Cabin, Slocan Chief Cabin & Helen Deane Lake – Hiking With Par

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