Mount Langley

Posted on by par

October 5, 2024. Climbing the southern-most 14er in the United States.

  • Region: Inyo National Forest & John Muir Wilderness, California. Traditional territory of the Paiute and Shoshone peoples.
  • Distance: 35.6 km round-trip
  • Total Ascent: 1460 m
  • Elevation of Objective: 4277 m
  • Total Time: 13h 29m
  • Safety and Disclaimer

After climbing Mount Whitney, our group decided to rest for a couple of days before tackling the 2nd 14,000-er of our trip: Mount Langely. Although Langley is only about 150m shorter than Whitney, the fact that it isn’t the tallest mountain in the lower 48 means that it is not quite as inundated with hikers. At the time of writing, no special permit is required to hike to the summit. The route we used ascended via New Army Pass and descended via Old Army Pass. It turned out that this route allowed for the best sunrise views as we ascended and the best daytime hiking amongst the more picturesque lakes in the area as we returned. The Cottonwood Lakes area, which the Mount Langley route passes through, has a number of trails passing along the valley bottoms and heading towards different lakes. It’s worth taking a look at a map and using a GPS at any fork in the trail you’re not sure about, especially in the dark.

The trail begins at the Cottonwood Lakes Trailhead, which is in the Horseshoe Meadows Campground near Lone Pine, California. As with our Mount Whitney ascent, we planned an early morning start so we visited the area the day before our hike so we’d be a little more oriented in the dark. On the day of our hike we set out roughly 2:30 AM and spent the first several hours in darkness. For the first 5 km or so, the trail was actually quite level. The terrain was unusual – soft sand made from eroded granite covered the trail. A couple of log bridges made things a bit more interesting as we marched along in the dark. After roughly 5 km or northward travel, the trail hooked west and started to ascend a little more steeply, heading towards the first of the Cottonwood Lakes.

There are many beautiful lakes in the area. Six of them are the Cottonwood Lakes, and they are actually named Cottonwood Lake Number One, Cottonewood Lake Number Two, etc. The reasons for this aren’t clear to me…they sit right alongside other lakes with more descriptive/interesting names like Long Lake, High Lake, Muir Lake, etc. In the darkness, we passed immediately to the south of Cottonwood Lake Number One and Number Two without seeing them. We then continued west, almost losing our way when we reached a marshy area near Long Lake but correcting ourselves and heading towards High Lake and then up the switchbacks of New Army Pass. The sky began to get lighter during this ascent. A few minutes after I reached the top of the pass the sun rose, reflecting the dawn’s light from from the lakes below, and finally showing us the terrain we’d been passing through.

From New Army Pass we followed the trail as it descended a bit and then connected with the trail coming up from Old Army Pass. We took a peek at the trail coming up to Old Army Pass and decided that we’d use if for our descent. We hadn’t been sure about using that route because of various reports describing it as “sketchy”, but with conditions that were completely clear and dry it didn’t look bad at all. From there the way to the summit was more or less completely in view. The trail continued a steady ascent to the north, eventually reaching a sign explaining that cairns were in place to guide hikers and could people please not mess with them. The cairns were huge constructions that showed a good route up a boulder-strewn slope. Reaching the top of that slope, the summit was a short walk away.

The weather was once again clear and calm. This being our 2nd 14,000-er in 3 days, the altitude didn’t really seem to impact us at all. I spent a little over 1 1/2 hours on the summit, looking in all directions at the stark landscape and sitting in the lee of a boulder, eating snacks and watching the occasional fighter jet pass overhead (this is a very frequent event in the area). Once we started the descent, we picked our way down the boulder field and then back to the sandy trail leading us to Old Army Pass. Descending along the Old Army Pass trail wasn’t difficult, but it did take some care and attention – the trail was narrow, uneven, and crumbly. Once we got to the bottom and looked back you almost wouldn’t believe there was a trail there at all.

We went past Cottonwood Lakes Number Four, Five, and Three then took a faint trail that cut south over grassy, almost boggy land between Cottonwood Lake Number Two and One. We then re-joined our original ascent trail and followed it back for 8 (somewhat monotonous) kilometres to the trailhead. My knees and feet were very glad when the parking lot came into view.

After our hike, when the group reflected on the day, there seemed to be a consensus that climbing Mount Langley was actually a little more fun than climbing Mount Whitney. I certainly felt that way, but thinking back on it now I honestly couldn’t explain why. It goes without saying that if you have the opportunity to climb Mount Whitney, do it. But if you can’t get a permit for Whitney and find yourself in the southern Sierra Nevada, Mount Langley is an outstanding hike.

Route overview looking west.
The day before our hike we scouted out the trailhead. It’s easy to find and adjacent to a potable water tap and pit toilets.

The first few hours were spent in the dark, with the occasional trail sign coming into view and a couple of creek crossings.

As we ascended to New Army Pass, the sky began to brighten with a pre-sunrise glow. Reflections brought the lakes into view.

Just before the sun came over the horizon I made it to the top New Army Pass.
Sunrise.
Orange sunlight on Mount Langley. The way to the summit is entirely visible from here except for a short descent from New Army Pass to the top of Old Army Pass. The summit is still roughly 5 km away at this point.
At the top of Old Army Pass, looking east.
Looking down at Cottonwood Lake Number Four and Five.
Continuing along the trail, the boulder-strewn nature of the slopes below the summit slowly became more clear.
Even high up on the mountain the terrain was still remarkably sandy.
For the final stretch, large cairns marked the preferred route to the summit. It wasn’t a direct approach from the south. Rather, it swung west a short distance then ascended to the summit from the southwest.
The cairns were pretty serious constructions.
Heading into the boulders.
Ascending the final section.
Looking downhill from part way up. I think that’s Upper Soldier Lake in the valley.
The final cairn.
Last few steps below the summit.
The summit of Mount Langley.
The official survey marker.
Me, holding up the little placard we found on the summit. In the background to the left of me is Mount Whitney, which had a somewhat more impressive summit placard.
A couple of F-15s flying by the summit.
Summit panorama looking northwest.
Cloud shadows creating an interesting effect on the mountain slopes and the lakes in adjacent Miter Basin.
Summit panorama looking northeast. I didn’t take many pictures looking to the south from the summit since it was mostly just a broad area of rock with some boulders.
Looking down into the valley to the northeast of the summit.
The green of Lone Pine was clearly visible to the east, as were the nearby Alabama Hills.
Another look towards Mount Whitney.
You could actually barely make out the hut at the top of Mount Whitney with the naked eye. With a camera you could get a shot of it, and even see tiny figures moving about.
Time to descend. As we set out, a raven flew alongside.
Following the cairns and the raven.
Once we were off the summit a nice south-facing panorama view was visible.
The long, sandy walk to Old Army Pass.
Starting our descent from Old Army Pass.
Part way down, looking back. The trail was straightforward in the daylight, but I’m glad we didn’t come up this way in the dark.
Some of the cliffs north of the trail through the pass.
The view from the east shore of Cottonwood Lake Number Four, looking at Old Army Pass. If we hadn’t just come down from there I wouldn’t believe there was a trail.
Cottonwood Lake Number Five.
A last look back before we descended out of the upper level of the Cottonwood Lakes valley.
Descending to the shores of Cottonwood Lake Number Three.
Looking back from the south end of Cottonwood Lake Number Three. The peak on the other side of the lake is Army Pass Point.
From that spot in the valley, the angle was such that we could see the summit of Mount Langley.
Walking between Cottonwood Lake Number One and Two to rejoin the trail we hiked up in the morning, which runs along the trees and boulders in the distance.
On the trail back to the trailhead. It was still a long walk from here.
A last look back at Mount Langley.

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