Leatherman Peak

Posted on by par

September 1, 2024. A bumpy drive leading to a steep but straightforward ascent of Idaho’s 2nd tallest mountain.

  • Region: Salmon-Challis National Forest, Idaho. Traditional territory of the Shoshone-Bannock people.
  • Distance: 12.4 km
  • Total Ascent: 1295 m
  • Elevation of Objective: 3727 m
  • Total Time: 7h 9m
  • Safety and Disclaimer

The day after climbing Borah Peak we set out before sunrise to climb Leatherman Peak. Located several kilometres south of Borah, Leatherman has a few options when it comes to scrambling routes. We decided on the northern approach, which starts at the West Fork Upper Pahsimeroi Trailhead. Reaching this trailhead is actually the toughest part of the day. From the highway, we first travelled along the rough Doublespring Pass Road before turning on to a very, very rough forestry road full of potholes, big rocks, sharp dips and a water crossing. A high clearance vehicle and some skill at rough driving is needed to make the journey.

From the trailhead, we set out south along the Leatherman Pass hiking trail. This trail initially runs alongside a creek for a few kilometres before breaking out into a large clearing roughly 3 km from the trailhead. From the clearing we were able to see ahead to Leatherman Pass. To our left we could see the ascent gully on the northern aspect of Leatherman Peak. Faint trails were visible on the slope and the route was obvious. The gully lead to a cirque below Leatherman’s northeast ridge. We climbed straight up steep slopes above the cirque to reach the ridge. All of this ascent was on a giant field of scree and talus. Once above the cirque there were some grippy slabs that were welcome breaks from the tedium of rubble. Upon reaching the ridge we turned right and ascended a short scramble which brought us up to the summit.

We were fortunate that the dense smoke from the previous day had moved off. We had much better views than we did from Borah Peak – Borah Peak itself was clearly visible to the northwest. The weather was calm and warm, allowing for a long stay on the summit – we sat and chatted with another party, snacked, and took in the scenery for over an hour. We returned by the same route. The drive out was time consuming, but we managed to make it back to Mackay in time to get food and beer at L7.

This was a fun day out, though I can’t say I enjoyed all the rough driving. If I could do it again, I’d approach from Sawmill Gulch Road and hike up to Leatherman Pass. Then, instead of ascending the west ridge (which is apparently very loose and sketchy), I’d descend slightly and traverse east so I could enter the cirque from the south via a gap between the main bulk of the mountain and a high-point. I did find a GPS track for this route, but no trip reports. One YouTube video describes someone who tried this route and didn’t enjoy it, but I think he was off route and ended up descending all the way to the valley bottom then ascending from the base of the gully instead of traversing into the cirque.

Leatherman was the 2nd of our 2 objectives for our long-weekend in Idaho, so we returned home the next day. It was great fun to go somewhere new and there are definitely other potential trips in Idaho that I’d like to do in the future.

Overview of the ascent from the valley bottom, first ascending a large gully to a cirque then ascending the face at the back of the cirque to the summit ridge.
At the end of the long and rough access road. There were several vehicles already there. We encountered 3 other parties on the mountain. The other people were either at nearby Pass Lake or another mountain.
The information post at the trailhead.
A sign pointing the way to Leatherman Pass, Pass Lake, Leatherman Peak, and Sawmill Gulch. The first few kilometres of the trail were in the woods alongside a creek.
Passing through a clearing. Leatherman Pass is visible straight ahead. Leatherman Peak is the one on the left side of the pass. To the left of Leatherman Peak is an un-named outlier. White Cap Peak is to the right of the pass.
A creek crossing.
The trail eventually broke out into this larger clearing.
Approaching the bottom of the big gully that leads to the cirque on the northern aspect of the mountain. The route is clearly visible. We put on helmets and got ready for an uphill slog.
At the top of the initial slope the grade eased off for a short while. The cirque is beyond the crest up ahead.
Taking a break to look back across the valley at an outlier of Mount Idaho.
Navigating over and around moraines as we reached the cirque.
Looking at the summit from the cirque. Our route took us straight up the slope behind the cirque to a point a short distance left of the summit.
Wherever possible I tried to keep ascend on steeply inclined slabs. They were very grippy and much preferable to ascending in the rubble.
A look to the right, giving an idea of the grade.
Taking a look back down at the cirque.
Reaching the summit ridge, looking right towards the summit.
A bit of scrambling terrain just below the summit. There was nothing tricky here.
The summit of Leatherman Peak.
Summit panorama looking northwest. Borah Peak is just left of centre.
Summit panorama looking southwest.
Summit panorama looking southeast. The mountain across the valley with the thick stratified slabs is Bad Rock.
Summit panorama looking northeast.
White Cap Peak, directly west across Leatherman Pass. Pass Lake is visible on the right.
A closer look at Pass Lake.
White Cap Peak, an un-named peak, Mount Idaho, and Borah Peak.
A better look at Bad Rock.
Group shot at the summit. Photo courtesy of Scott Mills.
Checking out some fossils. I pulled my left hand out of its glove to take the picture, hence the appearance that I found a glove holding a rock on the mountain.
At the end of the day we returned to L7 for food and beer.

Leave a comment

Unknown's avatar

Published by par